Tuesday, September 05, 2006

Real life confessions of a knife-o-holic

I would argue that I'm not really a knife-o-holic, but I really don't have any data to back it up... and have a perponderance of data to to the contrary... damn

I would argue that all... erm... (I'll have to count them later) all of my knives server different purposes.

There are others, and I love them all; but these were the serious ones.

For as full as my collection was, it was incomplete. I needed a true fighting knife. There were some strict requirements for this category.

Length: The blade had to be long and thick to ensure maximum damage on stabbing motions, and sufficient effective range when swung in a downward, blade out position. But not long enough to be unweildly or difficult to operate.
Grip: The grip had to fit my hand perfectly, and be slim enough to manipulated to different grip styles quickly and reliably. A slight forward angle would make it more effective in the downward position, but was not necessary. A grip with a bottom that was not flat would make a suitable striking area for non-lethal strikes to the head or appendages, but was not required. Grip aids (finger notches, holes to put fingers through) aid in blade retention, but hinder manipulation. It may be possible to find a grip aid that doesn't, but my best bet were rubberized grips that stuck when gripped tightly, but still slipped enough to be manipulated freely. The bottom of the grip should be wider than the middle of the grip to help retention. (The grips on full sized Ka-Bars were too big for my hand to grip comfortably, and were too round to allow fast manipulation)
Blade: Spear-point has the advantage of a curved cutting area, and strength in penetration; it was a requirement. A concave curve on the blade close to the grip would be a (cosmetic) bonus, but was not required. Sarrations are not required or necessary. There should be some level of forward and rear guard that is part of the blade. (I don't trust guards that are not part of the blade) Full tang is required. Blade thickness must be reenforced on the back of the blade to a satisfactory degree. No blade coating is required, lack of coating may even be favorable.
Weight/Balance: There should be enough weight to add to any swing, but not enough to make gripping a problem. Balance should be just above a standard grip if the handle is weighted properly, and the blade is long enough. The handle should be heavy enough that a low grip and hatchet swing should give the blade a machette feel (didn't think I was going to get this one)
Sheath: Sheath must have all tactical ammenities. Eyelets for tying to the thigh, and attaching to a military-style belt, velcro, adjustable belt-loops, and possibly a pressure retention device (I like them, but am not sure if I trust them when carried upside-down).

I'd been looking or this perfect knife for some time, but last Sunday I think I got as close as I was going to get (which was pretty damn close!) As soon as I walked in I picked it up and was sure I had found was I was looking for, but still looked at the other selections. Nothing else fit the category as well as this knife did. I couldn't resist.

Benchmade Offsider


Anonymous said...

Recommendation for a new knife to start a collection (and basic defense...) that looks good, but is practical? Send it to contact at my site...

Anonymous said...

Take a look at Entrek knives too, while you're on the quest. I've found their stuff to be virtually indestructable. I used their JAG model to split wood, anchor a tent corner lacking a stake, chop small trees down for creating a lean-to and clean fish (big fish). Unfortunately, it went overboard on a fishing trip to Ensenada, so I replaced it with...another JAG.

Some of the bigger ones, like the Brute, would probably fit the bill you want to fill.

Fletch said...

Wow. I'm going to be keeping an eye on Entrek. Thanks for the tip Josh!